This year, we at Food52 are on a mission to unearth people's personal Hanukkah traditions -- for example, do you make brisket for Hanukkah, or is that a big no-no?

Is it a lengthy sit-down feast or strictly latkes and donuts? Any especially memorable Hanukkah meals?

I'm very interested in this subject having just finished my own short single-subject cookbook on a very specific aspect of Jewish cuisine. Having done so, and having been raised WASP agnostic, I've become fascinated by how powerfully food is rooted to all Jewish holidays.

Michael, what's your newest book?

Is my mother the only Jewish mother who made egg nog a Hanukkah tradition?

Abigail, probably not. I always wanted to have it at the table. Probably leads to a good sugar coma when combined with with sufganiyot.

Abby, what else does your family usually eat during Hanukkah?

My family's Hanukkah was never complete without brisket. Brisket + latkes + salad = perfect hanukkah dinner in my mind. forward.com

Not sure how Breach works if I can respond to particular comments such as Devra's. But Devra, I'd can't say, because it's experimental and we're trying to post it to iTunes this afternoon, but if you know me, you might be able to guess what it is, and if you do, I will tell you!

amanda, I don't know what your family eats during Hanukka but mine ate martinis.

I would like to know why brisket is such a big part of Jewish cuisine.

Me, too. Is there significance to that specific cut of meat?

Amanda, my family typically falls back on the old standby of brisket but the crispy latkes are the highlight. The trick is they have to be thin with crisp edges. I never understand fat latkes.

I think Stephanie Person is the person to ask that question. She wrote the book on brisket. I think part of it is because it's kosher and was a treat but not too too expensive in eastern europe. That might be where it started from but how it became so iconic is another story.

Brisket is our manna in the desert. It's a tough meat, like the Jews, but it softens over time, like we do after therapy.

also, I'd love to hear cooks describe how they use leftovers following celebratory meals. that's always the big thanksgiving newspaper story, but I don't see a lot of passover or kipor or hanukka leftover advice.

Abigail, I've never understood thin latkes.

And are you guys pro or con apple sauce with latkes?

Michael, latkes benedict all the way! blogs.forward.com

Con apple sauce. Pro sour cream.

Pro apple sauce if it's a) tart and b) not left on the latke long enough to make it soggy.

I'm listening to the very good memoir Gone, by Times reporter Alex Witchell, who has recipe and funny warm story that brings together, Alex, her mom, former times ed Arthur Gelb and Martha Stewart.

Latkes benedict is a great idea!

I like gravlox on top of latkes, plus a bit of sour cream, yum!

Has anyone parsed the jelly donut yet? Seems out of place to me.

I have never understood why sufganiyot are filled with jelly. Someone please tell me why! I once read that it was a Polish tradition. In Israel they're stuffed with halvah, cream and nutella.

I think that latkes and apple sauce is a classic and ideal combination. Sometimes, latkes with applesauce and sour cream. (If, recalling childhood, then I mix the applesauce and sour cream together.) If I'm feeling fancy, though, or in the mood for something savory with latkes, I'd definitely go with creme fraiche and smoked salmon. Or creme fraiche and salmon roe or trout roe.

Another thing that has never made entire sense to me is that we fry on Hanukkah. The Miracle of Light occurred with olive oil, not really a frying oil.

It's the oil theme. We're a literal people.

Other than latkes, what else is fried on Hanukkah?

gelt of course. chocolate is the under rated tradition. also re:terms of left over latkes can be cooked up with eggs.

donuts are "fried"

Donuts are the other major thing in Ashkenazi tradition but jews around the world celebrate the holiday with a variety of fried goodies.

I believe Italian Jews fry chicken and vegetables for the holiday. blogs.forward.com

Are there any traditional vegetable dishes for Hanukkah?

Amanda, any clothing in the general vicinity of latke-making is "fried" on Chanukah. An important part of my family's Chanukah tradition is removing all coats and scarves and hats from the closet closest to the kitchen, so as not to smell like latkes for the entire winter season. (Though latkes smell delicious, of course!)

I want to put in a word for the new PC gelt. Tablet Mag just did a piece on how it's "ethically produced" these days. tabletmag.com

Good headline -- Gelt Without Guilt.

Amanda, I don't think of Hanukkah as being a holiday focused on veggies but there's no reason one can't create a custom of veggie salads dressed in olive oil. Would make for a nice contrast to all the fried foods.

that's an awesome headline

Wonder if Roman fried artichokes are a Hannukah food.

The fact that Amanda is even trying to investigate the vegetable angle of Hanukkah is heroic and, in my opinion, sisyphean. Jews and vegetables are an oxymoron.

Brisket, latkes, and fried artichokes would be good together. Also, we just ran a good brisket recipe from Nach Waxman: food52.com

I don't think they are traditionally. They came out of the times of the Ghettos in Italy where Jews couldn't buy much in the main markets so they started using vegetables others didn't cook with at the time, artichokes included.

I'd like to know what Jen Steinhauer makes for Hanukkah -- I trust her instincts on fun food.

Nach's recipe is such a good one!

Yes, and I love that it doesn't call for liquid.

Simple, straightforward, delicious!

I wonder what Nach serves with his brisket when he cooks it at home. Anyone been to his house for dinner?

I just printed Nach's recipe for my family dinner Sunday! (That's a key benefit to come out of this conversation this morning.)

During Hanukkah, do you eat one big meal or do you have these foods spread throughout the holiday?

how about fried kreplach (ruhlman.com)

My family usually has one big meal together at the beginning of the holiday. We each taken home leftovers and re-appropriate them throughout the week into other dishes. Cold brisket sandwiches might just be one of my favorite meals.

Re: the question of whether or not fried artichokes are appropriate - I think that food, for Chanukah, is largely about tradition, and not law (though I'd love to hear from Rabbi Wolpe on this), and so artichokes (much like brisket) can and should be served if one wants.

kreplachgreat way to use leftover brisket, too

Does anyone's family follow the tradition of serving dairy food during Hanukkah?

Since I work at an appetizing shop, my family definitely eats dairy during Chanukah too. Although we don't keep strictly kosher, some holiday meals are dairy-based and some meals are meat-based, for us.

Jen, what's your favorite dairy items to have during the holiday? are you a kugel fan?

Also, I once wrote about a latke recipe, for which you soak the grated potato and then, after draining it, you gather up the white starch that collects at the bottom of the bowl and use this starch to bind the latkes. It's a delicious recipe. Is this technique classic, or an outlier?

Michael, are latkes ever fried in schmaltz or is Hanukkah oil only?

I think some people do this. Melissa Clark mentioned it in her video this year. nyti.ms

I can't even look at schmaltz.

Michael -- we'd like your Hanukkah martini recipe, as well.

I think some people fry in schmaltz: youtube.com

Schmaltz latkes seems like artery-overkill. But it might taste great. Maybe mini-latkes fried in schmaltz? Many chopped liver recipes incorporate schmaltz, and so one could eat that with latkes for a similar effect.

Abby, just because it grosses you out or something else? Michael's book is about schmaltz -- maybe he can win you over!

It grosses me out on so many levels, I can't name them in 700 characters on Food52!

Hmm. Chicken flavored latkes. Reminds me a little of that mysterious/terrifying cracker from the 80s: Chicken in a Biskit. But makes much more sense with potatoes.

I'm wondering if people spin the Dreidel before dinner or after?

Michael, I can't wait to see this book!
Abigail, in our house it was always something the kids did while the adults made latkes.

Is there one particular night that people tend to celebrate with special food? The first, the last -- somewhere in the middle?

I feel like people I know tend to pick one night for the main celebration, but it seems to differ among families.

I agree with Merrill. In our family, it's usually first or last night that we celebrate together and do our Secret Maccabee gift exchange.

Devra, Abby, and Jen, if you have favorite recipes to point people to, add the links. People would love to check them out. Thanks!

Agreed. I think it varies by family. In my family it's either the first night or the shabbat (friday night) during the holiday.

Must ask -- who is Secret Maccabee?!

I like these recipes to go with latkes: Oranges and Shaved Fennel with Olive Oil, Pomegranate and Grated Celery Root with Olive Oil

Read more: blogs.forward.com

Also, Fanny Gerson's donuts (at home!): blogs.forward.com

... and just in from my friend Molly Yeh, marzipan + dark chocolate + orange rugelach mynameisyeh.com

Secret Maccabee is our version of Secret Santa. Each person buys one gift for one family member -- names picked out of a hat.

I'm catching up on some older posts. I hope that's okay! Re: Abigail's earlier note about jelly doughnuts. I should admit: I don't like doughnuts. But fruit jelly/jam seems like an important part of that tradition as well. So, this year I'm serving Dorie Greenspan's Jammers cookies. A new tradition, for me, but it seems like a nice addition. (Also, they're circles, and have jam in the center, so the symbolism isn't lost.) food52.com (Though I'm not baking them myself, but buying them from Beurre & Sel:beurreandsel.com )

Jen, that sounds like an awesome idea. Dorie is the best, as are her cookies!

Like the name Maccabee!

so sorry to have to sign off now -- it's been a pleasure. Next year in Jerusalem or on Food 52.

To Abby's question: this is really not a food holiday for us. It is latkes, gelt and gifts.

Happy Hanukkah, Abigail!

Re: Merrill's question about which night one might choose to celebrate - I've always felt lucky that the holiday lasts for 8 nights, and thus plenty of time to see family and friends.

I have to go back to thinking about Susan Rice. But this has been fun. I look forward to the Passover version of this, when I will have MUCH MORE to say! Happy Monday, everyone.

Jen Snow, what items fly off the shelves at Russ & Daughters for Hanukkah? Anything surprising?

Bye, Abby, and thank you!

Have any particular Hanukkah meals been stand-outs for any of you (in a positive or negative way)? Any grease fires?

A person I know would kill me if I told the details of the story I'll only say this: watching a latke newbie make latkes for the first time — while drunk — is really one of the funnies things I have ever witnessed in a kitchen.

Another standout was making latkes in a rinky dink kitchen on kibbutz years ago. A group of friends gathered to grate potatoes for about 30 people. We fried up the entire batch in three small pans (that's how many burners we had). I don't think any of them made it to a dinner table, they were all devoured as they came out of the pan.

Merrill, Amanda, are the members of your team latke purists or is mixing in veggies other than potatoes acceptable?

This recipe, which uses sweet potato and parsnip (and fresh ginger!) is delicious and is in our new book! food52.com

Devra, I feel like I've heard a lot of latke stories like that. Potato pancakes seem to lend themselves to eating standing up, huddled around the stove.

That does sound delicious. Does it get as crispy as a traditional latke? That has often been my challenge with non-traditional latkes.

Re:the Food52 question about what flies off shelves at Russ & Daughters. During Chanukah we make MANY thousands of potato latkes - all by hand. Housemade applesauce too. Since an appetizing shop specializes in smoked fish, we love to serve latkes with creme fraiche and smoked salmon. A smoked salmon that is particularly smokey works well (such as Scottish smoked salmon). Another serving option that is always a big hit, here, is creme fraiche with salmon roe or trout roe. One decadent and popular serving option, that is delicious, is to cut latkes into quarters and top with caviar and creme fraiche. In this case, a caviar with an assertive flavor is best. Paddlefish is one type that truly stands up to the oil in latkes. russanddaughters.com

As for the question about whether any of the items sell surprisingly quickly during Chanukah - after a friend and customer suggested it, I tried our goat cream cheese on a latke. And, if you use just a small amount, it's really delicious! It seems popular to do this with horseradish-dill cream cheese too. As long as the cream cheese is all natural, with no gums and no preservatives, it is light enough to work well.

Jen, that does sound really good. Kind of like labne on a latke?

hmm this is making me wonder if za'atar could work in a latke topped with labne. I wonder if the sumac would burn? if not, could be quite tasty.

Devra, labne and spices on a latke sounds great.

Hi from The Brisket Book - on the subject of why brisket, thanks, Devra - brisket because here in this country for any holiday it was inexpensive; could be cooked slowly overnight so it was Kosher; tradition. As for greens and sides with brisket - so few greens need apply. It's so much more about brisket; gravy; potatoes or noodles. The odd carrot and random celery stalk that might be in the pot.

Stephanie, if someone wanted to make it with veggies (not traditional but a bit more modern) what do you think would work best? Maybe chard?

Sure...chard would be good. Some snappy (sorry!) green bean recipe that adds brightness. Kale, maybe.

By the way: brisket leftovers. Speaking of non-traditional: Dante Gonzales - in his new book- RIDE OR FRY has a recipe for Guinness blueberry brisket tacos.

Food52, re: surprising Chanukah food things - I think that another, maybe surprising, thing, is the popularity of latkes not just for Chanukah. At Russ & Daughters, we see demand for them during Christmas and New Year's Eve/Day too. A traditional Jewish staple that has become a general winter staple too, regardless of holiday. Are there and latke recipes on Food52 that you find particularly popular with a wide assortment of your site's users, or popular during more than just one time of year? Related, though this is music, not food, but there's a great version of a Chanukah song on Sufjan Stevens' latest Christmas album, and it's what made me think about what kind of general appeal Chanukah food/recipes have as well. music.sufjan.com

(Typo: above I meant to say, "Are there any latke..." not "Are there and latke...")

Stephanie, what about brisket topped latkes? smittenkitchen.com

Jen, do any of the customers at Russ and Daughters order fleigels (lox fins) this time of year? My family traditionally made them on Christmas day.

I should qualify that. Poached with juniper berries and potatoes, the meat that's left on the fins is actually delicious. It's served with the potatoes, drained of any water and a dollop of sour cream or creme fraiche. forward.com

Jen, in addition to the Variegated Spiced Latkes (food52.com) that Merrill had shared earlier, here are two other popular latke recipes on our site:

Sweet Potato Parsnip Latkes with Feta and Leeks: food52.com

Golden Panko Latkes with Sour Cream and Chives:
food52.com

Hi! I hope I'm not too late.

Hi Gil! You're the person to ask: why are sufganiyot filled? and why red jelly?

The oriiginal Polish ponchiks were filled with prune lekvar or rose petal preserves. When they surfaced in Israel in the 1920s, the predominant jelly was red.

Fascinating. Did the tradition ever stop in Poland? Was it originally a Hanukkah food or just a treat that was adopted for the holiday? I must track one down with rose petal preserves - sounds fabulous.

The jelly doughnut first appeared in Germany in 1485.

It eventually spread to Poland where it was called paczki (flower bud), but Jews pronoucned themn ponchiks

Only some Polish communnities adopted ponchiks for Hanukkah, but in the 1920s in Israel the labor federation (Histadrut) was searching for ways to provie work. Since anyone can mae a potato latke, they deciede to promote the intimidating jelly doughnut, renamed sufganiyah, to provide serval weeks of work

I don't seem to be getting the hang of this branching

Devra, love the notion of brisket topped latkes - what a nice idea. I have never heard of that.

Hi Gil - only you (or Nach Waxman) would know when the first jelly doughnut appeared - so impressive!

Hi Stephanie. Thanks! That's why I wrote Encyclopedia of Jewish Food.

Amanda - you had asked for some special recipes. One winner is Levana Kirschenbaum's brisket - no real work; blender gravy; totally delicious. levanacooks.com Just don't sing "Tradition!"while you are adding the Coca Cola!

Gil - your book was SO helpful to me. It is a marvel of erudition and enlightenment. I hope you sold better than 50 Shades of Gray...

Welcome, Gil! So glad you can join the conversation.

Seems like you're getting a hang of it so far - if you'd like to "branch" off a specific post into a separate conversation, you can do so by clicking on the button on the right to "branch this". Otherwise, you can continue in this main Branch.

We'd love to hear about your Hanukkah food traditions - do you eat brisket? Any memorable Hanukkah meals that have been stand-outs for you?

Hi Gil and Stephanie, thanks for joining!

Hi - thanks for inviting me to the party!

Every year I conduct a family pizza and sufganiyot party, where I make the pizza and several hundred doughnuts. I even make my own cream filling and caramel cream. I do buy the jelly.

Wow Gil that sounds amazing. Are you hosting yours in your new home in Israel this year?

I'll in in USA till Jan 1, so this year's sufganiyot party is at my sister's in Brooklyn. Next year in Jerusalem.

Back to work...so much more fun talking latkes and briskets and several hundred doughnuts! Bye...

During the holiday, I also enjoy cheese latkes, by the way, the original type of latke. Potato latkes only emerged in the 1840s. But I like potato too.

Thanks for joining us, Stephanie!

Gil, know where we can find a recipe for the original cheese latkes?

Also, we're curious about the historical context around the significance of gelt and what you do with it. Can you offer any insights?

There's a recipe on PBS. Gil, this is made with ricotta, so traditional or not? pbs.org

There is a recipe for cheese latkes in Encylopedia of Jewish Food.

Gil, my copy is sadly trapped in our still closed (post sandy) office. Do you have it online by any chance?

Mine is also made with ricotta. The concpet emerged in Italy in the 1600s.

Check Google books.

Will do.

Devra, here's a link to it on Google Books: books.google.com

The cheese latke recipe is on page 354 and offers farmer's cheese and pot cheese as alternatives to ricotta. Interesting!

Sounds delicious. Will have to make for breakfast soon. Changes the whole toppings arena. Perhaps apricot peach jam? or some italian plum jam... I think I still have a jar from the summer.

Top cheese latkes with any type of jam or sour cream or yogurt

Aside from latkes, brisket, donuts, lox, and other dishes that we mentioned so far in this thread, are there any other dishes that are central to Hanukkah dinner?

Anything that used to be commonly served but has dropped out of popularity?

Greek Jews had a tradition of duck on Hanukkah

pour abigail and her schmaltz aversion! latkes are so good fried ins schmaltz! everything savory better fried in schmaltz. as the french fry potatoes in duck fat, the animal fat makes them especially crispy and delicious.

Encyclopedia of Jewish Food cited today on schmaltz and latkes:
haaretz.com

amanda, my martini would have to be a sephardic version. with olive.

thanks for the link, Gil. nice article! I don't know if i missed but did you or anyone else explain why brisket is the predominant cut of beef for holiday cooking?

Quoting Stephanie Pierson, author of the Brisket Book who just left, this is what she shared:

"On the subject of why brisket, thanks, Devra - brisket because here in this country for any holiday it was inexpensive; could be cooked slowly overnight so it was Kosher; tradition. As for greens and sides with brisket - so few greens need apply. It's so much more about brisket; gravy; potatoes or noodles. The odd carrot and random celery stalk that might be in the pot."

Akin to the unkosher expression “living high on the hog,” the higher on an animal, the less exercise it receives and the more tender. So brisket is on the low end with the most exercise and a tough cut and=, therefore, the most expensive. Throughout history around Hanukkah, people slaughtered most of the animals except child-bearing females before needing to pay money to feed them during the winter. So with the sudden meat surplus in Europe at Hanukkah, beef suddenly became more available. But most Jews could still only afford the cheapest cuts, brisket. It is Jewish soul food.

opps, I meant brisket was the least expensive

I'm briefly back - great notion: "Jewish soul food." It is interesting - and I know in Gil's book - that the price of brisket has risen very steeply. especially kosher and grass-fed.

have noticed this price increase too, with great dismay. cuts into the corning of beef and pastrami.

I think if I were to host a hanukka party I would serve a long heaping sandwich of sliced brisket warmed gravy, corned beef, pastrami, beef tongue, coleslaw, mustard. On a bed of latkes. but who will make me a rye hogie roll as long as my dining room table?

Coming late to the discussion. Anyone up for chatting about the differences between matzo meal and flour in latkes? I usually use flour.

Michael - latkes in the hoagie?!

Michael, Melissa, are you Philadelphians? Do people other than those from Philly say hoagie?

Nope I'm from Brooklyn, just taking my language cue on that one from Michael.

Melissa, do you make sufganiyot? I've toyed with the idea but never gone through with it. Any advice?

I have, the good thing about them is you can make them ahead. I think that's my advice, make them ahead! Latkes are so last minute.

and they're just as good? I imagined them best straight out of the fryer? wow this could be a game changer for me!

I mean you need to make them that same day, and preferably right before your guests come over. But they are still great (maybe not PERFECT) a few hours old. And it's worth it to be able to clean up the oiliness...

I'll definitely have to give it a try. Do you have a recipe you recommend?

I can't remember where I got my recipe from but it was flavored with orange water. So good! possibly Claudia Roden...

I love her recipes. I will search my bookshelf when I get home. Thanks!

It's been lovely chatting today. Thanks for organizing Food 52. Happy Hanukkah.

Thank you all for joining us and sharing your thoughts, stories and expertise. Happy Hanukkah!